I think he wrote that the buttons are underneath the headset. If its underneath, he cant see it with the headset on.
Dont just take his opinion alone. Go out and see if you can demo it yourself.
The writer has nixed categorizing the article as a review(On his blog), and maybe it was just off your comment. You want to call the review as shallow, its OK for you to say it. And people do agree with you on that. He can, and did choose to write about the product in the way he wanted to.